Making a terrarium ready for the hatchlings.
How many tanks you need for rearing young Takydromus depends on the amount of eggs you want to hatch. Anyway, you have to get a terrarium ready for the baby lizards with somehow different needs than the adults have.
A 40x30x40 terrarium (LxDxH) will be big enough for one litter of about 6 hatchlings. Any more and you will find problems later in the process.
Do not place the hatchlings in big terrariums or in the terrarium with their parents. Adult Takydromus can be nasty to the young ones, sometimes even eat them or will catch away all the food provided for the little one. Next to that, the climate in the adult terrarium will do the hatchling no good. In larger terrariums it’s harder for the hatchlings to find food or water. In a smaller tank they often find food easier and it is easier to observe the little ones.
How to decorate the terrarium.
Light and warmth has to be provided in the same way as you would in an adult terrarium, with maybe a slightly higher night temperature than normal (20/22 degrees celsius). Take care of a good basking place which can be used by more than one lizard at the time. If possible, keep the heat slightly to one side of the tank, so one side of the tank will reach a higher maximum temperature than the other side.
The biggest killer of young Takydromus sexlineatus is a too high humidity and a moist substrate. Our biggest advice: Keep it dry! But aren’t you saying that about adult grass lizard terrariums anyway? Yes I am, but with little Takydromus’s it is even more important and…..it must be even dryer. There for you’ll have to decorate the hatchling’s terrarium slightly different from the adult terrariums.
The substrate should be a thin layer of dry peat (special terrarium peat is the safest), do not place a lot of plants in the terrarium,stick with just one, which is standing in a planter and doesn’t need a lot of water. Provide the terrarium with some twiggs and branches, not too high above the ground. Place a few bottle caps with shallow water so the hatchlings can drink. However you want to provide in a drinking place, keep it small and shallow so that the lizards can not drown in it.
Keep everything as dry as you can, but spray a little water every day.
As soon as they have hatched you replace the little ones to the special terrarium. The first hours they will probably not eat yet, give them some time to adjust to their new home.
Spray a tiny little bit of water on the leafs of the only plant (a fake one will do too) to provide in an easy way for the lizards to drink. It sometimes takes a while before te youngsters find the little waterbowls and know what to use for.
When you start feeding the baby lizards, take care of good quality and well fed feedinganimals. Some people (especially the ones who’s core hobby is dart frogs instead of lizards) think that providing in fresh and big fruit flies will do the job, but it doesn’t.
Main course for the baby lizards will be baby crickets (the smallest size) completed with fruit flies and other little insects. You’re lucky if you live close to unpolluted grass areas where you can catch different little insects. There is no healthier diet than that. Feed the little ones every day until they are close to adult size.
Do not forget the vitamin and calcium supplements on the feeding animals, with vitamin D3, because especially in this stage, they will have terrible deformities by lack of calcium.
When you want to provide in vitamin D3 throughout a UV B lamp, be sure you have a good quality lamp. The best lamps provide in UV B light and warmth at the same time. Build up the time you leave the UVB lamp on, to let the lizards adjust to the UV radiation.
In all cases, keep an eye on the baby Takydromus. They are so delicate at first that a problem will cause death before you know it.
I make these articles based on my own experience, the research I did on scientific sheets and the information I gathered of other successful (hobby)breeders of Takydromus sexlineatus. The way I described the breeding proces in this article is based on the best results by certain Takydromus breeders, but it doesn’t exlude other methods.